Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Tenative Itinerary for Seville!

A list of ideas I got from http://www.exploreseville.com/

Enjoy a beer and a tapa of espinacas in El Rinconcillo, located near Plaza de Los Terceros. This is Sevilla's oldest bar, founded in 1670. There are plenty of traditional tapas to go along with the very typical atmosphere. The collection of antique liquor bottles are so rare that companies who still produce the brands have tried to purchase them back from the bar - but no luck!. And if you feel like a meal there's a new restaurant above the bar.

Rent a four-wheeled tandem bike in Parque Maria Luisa to take a quick tour of the gardens. They come in varieties for two of four riders and are a good way to see all of the park if you don't have much time. While they tell you not to take it off the paved streets you'll miss out on half the fun if you don't! Just make sure you've mastered the hand break before you start your trip. And keep an eye out for horse carriages and joggers, as well as the occasional fat and lazy pigeon.
http://www.exploreseville.com/images/todo/paruqe-bike.jpg

Order a tapa of boquerones en adobo in Bar Blanco Cerillo, located off Calle Tetuan in the central shopping district. If you get a chance to sit outside there is little doubt that Emilio will be your waiter. He's been there for about 13 years. One tapa and a cold cruzcampo and you'll be in heaven. To find it follow your nose - when you smell something delicious on calle Tetuan look for a little side street with some tables outside.
http://www.exploreseville.com/images/todo/blancocerillo.jpg

Order a pitcher of Agua de Sevilla, best with a few friends as it packs a punch: four kinds of liquor, champagne, pineapple juice and cream. Not every place serves up this concoction, but you will have some luck in Santa Cruz and calle Betis. La Carboneria is one place in Santa Cruz where you can always order it. Wherever you may find it there's all the right ingredients to get the night moving, maybe too quickly. Seriously, this can end your night as quick as it begins if you don't measure your intake!

Visit the Animal market on Sunday morning along the river and Avenida Torneo to check out the dogs, cats, birds and more. You can even bring home a duck! While this is still fun, I miss the days of the market in Plaza Alfalfa right in the center of the city. Like other markets it was moved further out, in this case during the bird flu scare around 2004 or 2005. Now it's harder to get my weekly puppy fix.

Buy sweets at a local convent - certainly a different experience than a bakery. In many you have an interesting exchange at first. Ring the bell and wait until you hear the nun say "Ave Maria Purisima". You'll likely want to respond by saying "Sin pecado concebido". Now you're ready to ask for what you want, place your money on a turnstile and spin it around for the nun on the other side. Then wait for something delicious to be spun back to you. One of my favorites: San Leandro (famous for their yemas).

Take a quick look at what remains of a 14th century funerary chapel in the Iglesia Salvador. This small chapel was discovered just off of the patio and was one of many discoveries during the recent renovation and excavation work. The private chapel (Capilla de los Pineda) features Gothic and Islamic styles and belonged to the Pineda family. Current rehabilitation work is being done on some of the tiles which remained intact and should (at some point) be on display.

Take in a free exhibit, of sorts, at theSunday market in Plaza del Museo next to the Museo de Bellas Artes. Here you'll find paintings and sketches by local artists for sale in a range of styles and prices. Beware, if you're not in Sevilla for good then you may need to figure out a way to bring it back on the plane. Better to choose something small! There is now also a new art market in Triana along the Paseo de la "O", also on Sunday mornings.

Check out an exhibit at one of the manyprivate galleries in town. Galería Rafael Ortiz, located on calle Marmoles in Santa Cruz, is one of my preferred. The venue is a renovated house with high ceilings and has some of the best works of the private galleries in town. There are around 15 - 20 galleries in the city center and the exhibits generally change a few times per month.

Watch a bullfight in the Plaza de Toros, one of the best venues in the world for a corrida. The bullring is famous and the museum itself is worth a visit. Or if you can't stand the idea of a bullfight then try picketing outside and be prepared for a lot of arguments. At least it will make for an interesting story in the local paper. If no events are scheduled, try a visit to the Museum.

Eat an ice cream at Rayas, the best place for ice cream in Sevilla if not all of Europe. On a hot summer night the crowds overwhelm the place as people spill into the street. You can choose from about 30 flavors which change seasonally and even get a to go container to bring it back home. If it's winter try their chocolate shop next door. You'll find Rayas just a block up from the Iglesia San Pedro on Calle Imagen, or their new location at the edge of Calle Zaragoza and Reyes Catolicos.

Head to Parque del Alamillo on Monday, Wednesday or Friday afternoons to see the young and aspiring toreros practice against a pair of horns on two bicycle wheels (pushed by another). This is where it all begins (and ends) for many wishing to try their luck in the "big leagues". The park is one of the largest in Sevilla and a popular spot for jogging or taking in a little nature by the river.

Catch a flamenco show at Casa de la Memoria or Auditorio Alvarez Quintero, where the price is cheaper than the tablaos but the show better than the average bar. Casa de la Memoria is an interesting venue: an 18th century patio in Santa Cruz which has very limited seating. Auditorio Alvarez Quintero is located just 2 blocks from the Cathedral and includes a small art gallery above the stage.

Visit the three roman columns hidden away behind a building on calle Marmoles in Santa Cruz. You may even catch a glimpse of the cat family living there. Just like in Rome! There were more columns at one point, but some were taken to the Alameda and are now propping up statues at either end of the Plaza. This was a temple dedicated to Hercules. The street (Marmoles, or marble) comes from the location of the columns. The Alameda de Hercules takes it's name from the original site of the temple.

Take a tour of the El Salvador church now that it is finished.. The church was closed for about 5 years after a stone fell out of the ceiling. During the works they discovered the ruins of the original, main mosque of Seville as well as tombs from Christian times. The church would be considered a Cathedral in many other cities and the restoration work is impressive. One hint: buy your ticket at the Cathedral first, which gives you free entrance to El Salvador. Otherwise you have to pay 3 Euros.

Take a photo of the house where the painter Velázquez was born. You'll find this hidden down a little alley between Plaza Alfalfa and Plaza de San Pedro (Cristo de Burgos). It's often overlooked only because it is hard to see from the main streets. The house is now the business offices of the famous designers Victorio & Lucchino.

Eat pescaito frito with a view of the old City Wall.  With a prime location along the newly illuminated old city wall in the Macarena, there is no place quite like Freiduria La Pastora to enjoy freshly fried fish. With plenty of outdoor seating, you can order drinks at the bar and take a number once the fry stand starts up to order your fish! Inside you'll find cold tapas and plenty of shellfish. This is a recommended night activity, when the view of the city wall is at its best.

Broma: **Are you visiting Seville with that special someone? Perhaps the one you plan to spend the rest of your life with? Drag that someone down to the Ayuntamiento and pass under the arch which joins Plaza San Francisco and Plaza Nueva. Local legend says you will marry the person with which you pass under the arch. If you decide you've made a mistake then find yourself a broom and sweep the feet of that person. An old saying in these parts is if your feet are "swept" then you won't marry.**

Rent a "city bike" from Sevici - get a day or week pass and try out Seville’s network of bicycle lanes which have become more and more popular with locals and visitors.  You can consult the routes here (link), or just hop on and see how far it can take you.  All of the rental machines have an English option which makes things easier if you don’t speak Spanish! Just make sure you select a bike in good condition.

Enjoy a glass of sweet orange wine at Bar La Goleta on calle Mateos Gago. This dark, sweet wine might be considered an acquired taste but it's the perfect way to start the night with a drink before some tapas. The bar is owned and operated by Alvaro Peregil, the son of Pepe Peregil, a well known flamenco singer Seville who also happens to own a few bars around the Santa Catalina and Alflafa neighborhoods.

2 comments:

  1. Wow@! You have to document each experience for us - with pictures! It sounds like so much fun!

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  2. With each passing line, I realized why my life is so boring...simply not enough energy to participate in the necessary activities that make one worldly. Sounds like you are definitely living life to the fullest. Cheers!

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